Looking to get outta Medellín for the weekend? After one too many weekends in the city of eternal spring, I was thinking the same thing. In fact, one Thursday afternoon, I was mid-Salsa class when my inner explorer woke up.
We’d started a round of infinitos — an exercise to loosen up your hips. They’re supposed to look like you’re hula hooping. But, when I do them, I look like a grandpa doing a 180 with a zimmer frame. Still gyrating, I turned to my Salsa teacher… “where’s a cute town I could check out this weekend?”
“Have you been to San Rafael yet?” She said over the top of Maluma’s Hawaii.
“No, what’s it like?” I replied.
“It’s cute! There’s loads of charcos!”
Now, like me at the time, you may be wondering what in God’s name is a charco? Well, in Colombia they’re river rapid type things (also referred to as quebradas). In other Spanish-speaking countries, charco means puddle… Gotta love the old es-pan-yol.
Anyway, San Rafael, Colombia is well known for its network of rivers running around the town. And is a popular destination for the people of Medellín. In this post, you’ll learn how you can get there too.
Getting to San Rafael from Medellín
Go to Medellín’s Terminal Norte. Pick up your tickets from either Sotrapeñol or Sotrasanvicente for around 30 mil pesos. Grab a Cosechas (I recommend mango, fresa, and piña) to energize yourself for the 3.5-hour journey to San Rafael, Colombia. When you hit Guatabae (as my Colombian friend calls it) you only have 1hr left until you reach your destination.
The bus Sotrasanvicente to San Rafael
By the way, If you’ve not climbed La Piedra yet, it’s a must-do while in Medellín. So defo consider tagging it on to your trip or going back to Guatapé another time.
Accommodation in San Rafael
We arrived in San Rafael at mid-day with the sun pegando fuerte. Getting to one of those big refreshing puddles was our priority.
We got off the bus at the main plaza. I pulled on my backpack, looked up, and our surroundings hit me. In front of us, a big white church. To the right, an overhanging tree that looked like the weeping willow from Harry Potter and the chamber of secrets. But, the most impactful was the buzz of pueblo life in Colombia. Even during a pandemic, you could tell it was a Friday. The sensible locals were sat outside drinking their tintos, the kids chasing each other across the square, and the parceros in the bars getting a head start on the weekend… For us though, we had to find our Airbnb.
San Rafael’s big white church
Now, as you can imagine, Airbnb’s in small towns are basic. In fact, most if not all accommodation is basic. But, for a few days, I’m never fussed.
If you’re looking for a hotel, check out Casa Verde. We ate dinner there one night. The owners told us they’d barely had guests since the pandemic. And that they were glad to see tourists back in the town. If we’d have known, we’d have stayed there instead of the Airbnb. It costs 30 mil pesos per person x night. Plus, the vegetarian food was great.
Coffee & Charcos time in San Rafael
We dropped our bags at the Airbnb and b-lined for the coffee place El Cafe Red Local del Turismo near the plaza. I heard it was kinda hipster, so being from East London, obviously had to see it for myself. Now, there were no aero press’s on sale, bearded baristas in vintage clothing prepping a Chemex, or low techno in the background. But I could see why people labeled it hipster. The coffee and chocolate brownie were deliciosos.
I picked up a map from a table and we planned our adventure. On day 1 we’d walk to los charcos close to the town. And, on day 2, cycle along el Bizchoco river. Fortunately, the cafe owner rented bikes. Just ask one of the baristas and they’ll sort you out. Bike rental was something like 50 mil pesos each.
Charco La Chocha
It was now past mid-day and the sun had started to ease up. We headed along Calle 15a towards Charco La Chocha. The road out of the town revealed the emerald green hills and mountains of Antioquia. In the distance, you could just make out Cerro Tusa — the world’s tallest natural pyramid. I thought to myself I’ve gotta climb that one day.
San Rafael’s emerald greeness
En route, you’ll pass many charcos. Each signposted and worth stopping by for a dip. We followed the route until we saw a large rock jutting out the middle of the river like an iceberg. You could see the strength of the current. The water sliced in half by the rock, directing the water past its belly. We waded through the river and let the current guide us toward the front of the rock. Others clearly had had the same idea. Attached to the summit of the rock was a rope. If you’ve got the strength you can reach the summit.
Just before the rock is a cute spot for a beer. We sat by the river watching happy vacationers hurl themselves into the water on a rope swing. The kind you see on those home video fail compilations. One Club Colombia later, we headed back to the pueblo. It’s moments like that, in Colombia, traveling with a good mate that gives me so much happiness and tranquility.
On the way to La Chocha
Day 2 – Route El Bizcocho (most popular route)
Colombian mornings are for street vendors and the early risers of this world. Early risers for the morning ceremony at the Church. And those in need of their caffeine hit. I’m one of the latter. So after a quick cold shower (good luck finding a warm one in a pueblo), I went on the hunt for tinto.
The street vendors were setting up shop. I walked past 3 ladies getting the morning’s breakfast ready. They were chatting away while pulling out fresh empanadas from large blue tubs. Their Spanish was too fast for me to understand, but, with the brief pauses for laughter, I could feel the good vibes.
At the plaza, the church ceremony had just finished and “crazy” Saturday was starting. San Rafael’s plaza becomes a buzzing market on Saturday. The smaller nearby towns arrive to do buy all sorts of goods. We were going to miss the craziness. Instead, we had to get to the bike rental place for 8 am.
But first, my favorite traditional Colombian breakfast; scrambled eggs, cheese, arepa, and calentao (basically a beans and rice combo). Defo drop one of those before the long day ahead.
Arepa con huevo perico y calentao
Shortly after, we took off for El Bizcocho via the main road. The same one we arrived on. It’s a popular cycling route so you’ll be in good company. And if you want to avoid a grueling unnecessary stage, turn right at the first main bridge you come across. We cycled up the lung bustingly steep road another 40 minutes. If it wasn’t for a nice lady telling us we’d missed it we’d probably have ended back at Guatapé.
Cascada La Cazuela
Back on track, we cycled to our first stop, Cascada La Cazuela. Only it wasn’t as straightforward as I’d hoped. Of course, my chain would come off. And not only that — the whole gear system got bent beyond repair. You’d think your travel buddy would give you a hand… but, my mate Michael (or as I now refer to him “Judas”) left me stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Despite the best efforts of a talented 11-year-old to fix it, I decided to march on bikeless. One wrong turn, and two hours later, I found La Cazuela… and Judas.
The route is signposted, I’ve just always been a bit useless with directions. Stick to the left-hand forks in the road and you’ll be fine. And, if you doubt yourself as much as me, there are plenty of people to ask for directions.
At La Cazuela, there’s a restaurant and tienda selling snacks. Many people made the trip. Most on motorbikes or in cars. And, to be honest, getting here on a pushbike would be tough. The roads are made from jagged stones and at a gradient that would take some powerful quads. Let’s just say, Michael is no Chris Hoy…
Cascada La Isleta (if you’re up for extra adventure)
I’d cooled of physically and mentally in the icy waters of La Cazuela. We heard there was another waterfall about 20 minutes away — 20 minutes if you know where you’re going that is. At this time, there was no signpost. We relied on directions that we didn’t really understand and our intuition. Always a recipe for disaster. In any case, we heard voices in the general direction of the waterfall. They confirmed our suspicions and, finally, we made it.
Waterfall “La Isleta”
La Isleta was more secluded than La Cazuela. Trees engulfed us making it feel darker and cooler. The waterfall thundered down water from higher in the gloomy sky. And if you tried to get close, it repelled you like two north poles of a magnet held close to one another. If you want to see it for yourself check out this video from day 2 in San Rafael, Colombia (the story of Judas included)
Eventually, it was time to go back to San Rafael. This time, accompanied by Michael pushing his bike. If only to make me feel better…Before long a white pickup truck was on our tail. I waved him down and we got a lift back to town.
En fin.
Give yourself at least two days to explore San Rafael, Colombia. I felt we barely scratched the surface. There is so much to do there. Our Airbnb host showed us other charcos and adventure tourism like tubing that you can do there.
Nevertheless, my first Colombian Charco experience wet my appetite for more. In fact, I’d heard San Carlos’s charcos were even more impressive. That adventure wouldn’t be far off…
