A hidden gem in the heart of Antioquia. That’s how I’d sum up San Carlos, Antioquia if I were one of those corny travel program hosts. A pueblo that doesn’t see many foreign tourists. But home to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, waterfalls, and charcos (rapid type rivers) I’ve seen in South America. And above all, some of the warmest and kindest people that I had the pleasure of meeting during my trip.
Why don’t many foreigners visit?
Well, our guide Willian, perched on a rock beside a small waterfall, recounted how the pueblo suffered at the hands of the right-wing paramilitary and leftist gorillas. In fact, the population of the town fell to as low as 6,000 inhabitants. It took a government offensive in the late ’90s to force the rebels out of the area.
Nowadays, in peaceful times the population is around 20,000. But the reputation still seems to put people off.
Or maybe because the town is further away than the more popular pueblo near Medellín like Guatapé, Jardín, and San Rafael. Either way, there’s no excuse not to visit this beautiful town in the heart of the cordillera central de Antioquia.
Here’s what you need to know for an action-packed 3 days in San Carlos, Antioquia:
Day 1 – Medellín to San Carlos
Buses to San Carlos leave from the North Terminal of the city. Don’t worry about booking in advance. The buses leave every hour from 6 am until 5 pm. We picked up tickets for 35mil pesos (about £7) leaving at 9am with the bus company Coonorte. The journey is around 4.5 hours depending on traffic. The bus does make a stop near Guatapé so you can empty your bladder & grab a bite to eat.
La Iglesia (church) of San Carlos
Where to stay in San Carlos
Although you won’t find much of Booking.com or Airbnb there’s plenty of choices ( If you’re a Colombian anyway). Apparently, hotels need a special program to register gringos. So, we ended up staying at Hotel La Cascada, a stone’s throw from the plaza and only 40mil pesos a night. If you’re looking for something more in nature you shouldn’t look further than La Chorrea. The stunning Finca has one of the best panoramic views I’ve ever seen. This option is 80mil pesos a night including 3 meals. More to come on this on day 2…
Chill walk along the river “La ruta de la viejita”
This tranquil walk along a series of Charcos is the perfect afternoon activity. You’ll need to follow the road to the left of the church until you reach a statue of Jesus. From there, take the path to the left. Or, just ask the super friendly locals. It’s always more fun anyway. The walk is only about 30 mins but you’ll see 3 impressive waterfalls. Make sure you bring your swimming stuff so you can take a dip in La Cascada. The last of the waterfalls along the route.
Taken from “La Cascada” at the end of La Ruta De La Vieja
Day 2 – Visiting the epic waterfall “La Chorrera”
I’d suggest finding a guide If you don’t know anyone from San Carlos to show you around. We’d booked passionate San Carlosito (the name for people from the pueblo), William. He’d charge 200k per day for groups up to 4. He’s well known in San Carlos so ask for him in the town. Or, drop him a message on his WhatsApp. Our first adventure was to La Chorrea. A huge waterfall of more than 80 meters.
“La Chorrea” extends way up the mountain!
Next, we headed to La Chorrea’s namesake Finca come hotel for lunch. If we’d have known, we’d definitely have stayed there. The pictures below don’t do this view any justice whatsoever…
Fresh coffee directly from the Finca
Stuffed from lunch and the array of fruits we’d been trying we pushed onto to see more charcos. Be prepared to get wet here. There’s a fair amount of wading through water. And if you’re feeling daring the opportunity to cliff jump into the waterfall. Not as scary as it sounds…
Day 3 – Climbing El Tabor
The day we’d been waiting for! Time to climb el Tabor. The highest rock formation in Colombia (formerly known as las tetas de la viejita…). But first en route, a pit stop at the Finca of Dona Fany for breakfast. And what an experience it was. I won’t put it into words as some things are better lived. All I’ll say is I’ll never forget standing in the Finca looking out into 360 degrees of pure nature. I’m far from a hippy but I was overcome with feeling gratitude and serenity.
Doña Fany and her esposo, and I.
Onwards…
Fueled for the hike we traversed the base of the mountain to the start point. Climbing the mountain takes about 2.5 hours. And is moderately difficult for the last hour of the hike as the route steepens.
El Tabor still covered by the mist
You’ll rest for a while to feel the energy of la piedra. Legend has it the rock has soul-cleansing properties. We held on for a while…
Deep soul cleanse in progress…
If you’re lucky the sky will be clear (or at least partially clear) to reveal the central mountain range of the Andes. Breathtaking views that will live long in my memory.
View from la cima (the top)
Getting back to Medellín from San Carlos
We decided to head back to Medallo after the hike. The buses leave from the bus station until 5 pm. So you’ll have time to shower, pack, and eat before the return leg.
En fin.
The 3 days felt enough, but we’d barely scratched the surface of what San Carlos has to offer. I like to think I’ll return as I write this rather sentimentally. Sat here in my apartment in the bustling city of Medellín. I guess there’s not much more to say other than get yourself to San Carlos.
Nick
