I heard mixed things about Rio Claro. One blog proclaimed Rio Claro as: “their favorite experience in Colombia”.
Another chap at my Crossfit gym explained (in great detail) how his bed bug infestation must have originated from Rio Claro. And, if you go caving, watch out for the birds that swoop down on you from the darkness. Turns out they don’t like the head torches.
Despite the potential bed bugs and bird attacks, I needed a relaxing few days so I decided to find out for myself.
Where & What is Rio Claro?
La Reserva Natural canon del Rio Claro is located in the South-Eastern part of the central Antioquian mountain range (that’s a mouthful). And Rio Claro or clear river in English is the river running through the reserve and surrounding area.
The reserve itself was set up in the ’70s to protect the surrounding area, support educational programs, and develop eco-tourism. I expect it was necessary to stop the Colombian industry from destroying more natural beauty.
In fact, the river is rich in Marmol (marble) which is why Corona — the toilet and sink manufacturer — has one of its biggest refineries a stone’s throw outside the reserve.
Now you can do activities like caving, ziplining, rafting, or hiking.
And you stay in cabins slap bang in nature along the river.
Booking your stay at the Rio Claro Reserva natural
There’s one way to book. Over the phone. They don’t speak English, but their website lists everything you need to make the reservation.
(When I loaded the page on my mobile, I saw an option to reserve online. So that could be an option? Let me know in the comments if it is)
Three important things:
Which cabin you want to reserve.
There’s a bunch of different options. Some better for couples and others are more suited for groups or families.
We wanted to stay in el Refugio in el Refugio. The most romantic cabin with the best view and jacuzzi but it was booked out. We ended up staying in another of the private suits Natura in el Refugio. And, to be honest, it was still great (just without the jacuzzi and panoramic view).
The reserve is popular with locals so you need to book a fair bit in advance to get your first pick.
What time of year you’re going.
It’s called Rio Claro (clear river) for a reason. At certain times of the year, the river is crystal clear. We went in May, and although it was getting clearer, the river had a snotty green tinge. It’s still beautiful but the river is clear in the dry season from December to January and July to August.
Cash payments only for ev-er-y-thing
Well, not initially if you have a Banco Colombia account. If you have a foreign account, you’ll need to take out cash from an ATM (BBVA doesn’t take a commission from British cards). Then go to a Banco Colombia and pay the cash you’ve just taken out into a deposit machine. The reserve will email you all the details. It’s a ballache. But it’s the only way. They even told me I could lose my reservation if I didn’t use this method.
(Fortunately, there was a lady in the bank to help me because I’ve not stepped foot in a bank in like 20 years.)
When you’ve made the payment, you’ll get a slip with the transaction number. Email that to the reserve to confirm payment.
At the reserve, your breakfast, lunch, and dinner are included in the cash you sent. Snacks and activities are not. So make sure you bring enough cash to cover anything you fancy doing.
I paid for 2 people’s beers and snacks over 2 days. The bill came to around $84 mil. Plus the rafting at $40 mil each. Plus the bus ticket and taxi back to my apartment at around $40 mil for 2 people (don’t forget cash for taxis from the terminal).
Getting to the reserve from Medellín
We got to Medellín’s north terminal at 9 am. At 09:05 am we found bus company Trans Corriente (window 7). By 9:16 am we were on the move.
I hadn’t left Medellin in this direction since the infamous Sonsón hike. We were on a different road this time. I was excited to see Antioquia from a new perspective. More excited than one poor lady it seemed. We’d only been on the road for 5 minutes and she was already vomiting into a plastic bag. The travel sickness normally starts on the windy roads outside Medellin. Poor thing. I put in my Airpods to drown out her retching and settled in for the 4-hour journey.
The bus driver pulled over outside the reserve’s entrance. One of the staff waved us in, gave us a map, and pointed us in the direction of the reserve.
It was hot. Like humid tropical forest hot. Which kinda made sense considering that’s where we were. After five minutes walking, a reserve truck pulled over and hitched us a ride to the reception. Just as well… even the truck ride to reception was about 10 minutes.
What is there to do at the Rio Claro Reserve?
The river peacefully glided on by like a lazy Sunday. But it was lunchtime, chill time would have to wait.
I’d heard mixed things about the food there. And, to be honest, it was average. Average to good I’d say. But I’m a big fan of most Colombian food. Expect; arepas, soups, rice, and meats. All served buffet style.
The cabins are another 10-minute walk along the river. We dropped off our bags and decided to explore the length of the river path. You can walk about 45 minutes before the path fades away. It really is a beautiful place. Super chill. Perfect for escaping the city.
Apart from the activities during the day, there’s not much else to do. I was okay with that. I was happy to chill by the river with a beer, a book, or relax in the room with the sounds of nature.
The next day we did the rafting. It was more of a casual boat ride than anything. Enjoyable and not strenuous. Anyone able-bodied could do it. The route takes about 2 hours with a short stop halfway. They advised us against bringing phones or cameras but as long as you have a water-proof bag it’s fine.
We were tempted to do the caving in the afternoon but we were feeling lazy after the morning’s rafting. On the way back to the cabin we saw a group on the canopy (zip-lining). We were too lazy for that as well.
What you should bring?
Pack light clothing. Quick-drying sports clothing if you have them ‘cos it’s humid as fuck. Even in the evening, I was sweating like a pregnant nun. Don’t worry about bringing a jumper. At most, bring a waterproof jacket in case of rain.
At night, the rooms get invaded by the cast of a bugs life, so bring some good repellent. And, of course, sunscreen.
En Fin.
I enjoyed our few days in the reserve. It’s definitely worth a visit but I wouldn’t say it’s my favorite spot in Colombia. If I had the choice between Rio Claro and San Carlos, I’d say San Carlos. But maybe that’s because we went in the wet season when the river looked kinda like a normal river.
They’re obviously doing good work there, but everything does feel a little outdated. Like it’s not changed since the ’80s or something. Now, I understand It’s a private project with limited funding. However, a cash injection could mean more cash from tourists. And that could help the project long term.
But still, 100% worth a visit.
Best,
Nick
