First off, I could have called this post “How To Get To The Parque Nacional del Chicamocha / Panachi / la Mesa de Los Santos…
If you’d have done some digging on the park before reading this guide, you’ll know what I mean. I was equally confused. I mean, how can it be so complicated to get to a massive canyon? And, why does it have so many god damn names!
Anyway, here’s how to get there from Bucaramanga…
First things first
Despite my petulant mini-rant just then the canyon is stunning. Gazing at the infinite rolling mountains it seemed like they couldn’t be real. I’d love to hear what you think once you’ve been. But, for me, it looked like you were looking at a scrunched-up piece of brown A4 paper through a super zoomed-in micro-scope. As if we were in the fibers themselves. Crazy, huh…
The other side of the canyon looks like the scrunched-up paper… (Photos don’t do it justice whatsoever!)
Anyway, the first conundrum. Why so many bloody names? Easy. Parque Nacional del Chicamocha is synonymous with Panachi. In fact, the canyon is more commonly referred to as Panachi.
Secondly, what’s this mesa de Los Santos all about? This confused me (although, pretty sure it was my slow Spanish comprehension more than anything). You can arrive at two different sides of the canyon. To the side of the park itself (aka Panachi) or la mesa de Los Santos. If you are traveling from Bucaramanga you’ll arrive at the park. And, I believe, people arriving from the direction of Bogota often arrive at la mesa de Los Santos. Either way, you’ll visit both sides of the canyon via the cable car.
Sorted. Now…
How to get to Parque Nacional del Chicamocha by bus
Note: All this information I’ve taken from the official website as of the writing of this post (2021). I don’t imagine anything would have changed but ya never know!
Anyway, here are the steps I took to ensure the park visit was plain sailing:
1. Reserve your park visit via the official website – I’m not sure why this is necessary as they don’t ask you for your passport details or any money upfront. Probably due to COVID.
2. Contact the bus company for your transportation – this actually worked out really well as they handle the park entrance fees as well. I messaged them via WhatsApp in Spanish. But they also have an email address and website.
WhatsApp: +57 3153831674
E-mail: asotranspanachi@hotmail.com
Parque Nacional Del Chicamocha Website
Note: The price for transportation there and back (Ida y Vuelta) was 46 mil ($13) and the park entrance (including the water park) was 58 mil ($16).
3. The bus leaves from Parque Las Palmas across from the Banco de Occidente at the designated time (for me it was 8 am on a Saturday). Although, it did show up about 30 minutes late… The driver took our passport details and the payment for both the bus ride and park entrance fees.
The bus picked us up along this road.
The journey is a windy and often bum-clenching 2-hour journey to the park. But, seriously, those views on the way. Espectacular!
What do to at the park
Obviously, this is entirely up to you, but here was my plan of attack. It made for an amazing experience that I’m grateful to have stored in my brain.
10 am – Arrival at the park (followed by aimless walking around not knowing what I’m doing for 20 minutes)
This is where you need to head to once you’re dropped off…
10:20 am – Finally entered the park and went straight on the teleférico (cable car)
(The cable car takes about 1 hr to go down to the bottom of the canyon. If you’re scared of heights you may struggle).
The cable car from the side of la mesa de Los Santos
11:30 am – arrived at la mesa de Los Santos where it is surprisingly cooler than the Panachi side.
I walked around the little plaza and enjoyed an Oblea and coffee. There are 2 miradores (lookouts) on both sides of the cable car station thing.
Turns out this little wafer thing is an Oblea!
12:45-ish pm – Took the cable car back to the main park and headed up to the other attractions. This includes a zip line, swing, a really impressive monument, and a 360-degree lookout right at the top.
You can just about make up a guy mid zipline
3 pm – Headed to the water park. Yes, waterpark! I wasn’t that keen initially but it’s actually a lovely way to chill for the rest of the afternoon. Plus you get a view of the other side of the mountain range (the scrunched-up paper-looking one).
A bit random, sure, but genuinely a nice way to chill the rest of the day.
4.30-ish pm – Made my way back up to the main park to soak up the view one last time and wait for our bus driver.
5.30-ish pm – En route back to Bucaramanga.
En Fin
A bloody great day. Even as a solo traveler who prefers to share moments at places like this with others, I loved every minute. It’s always a good sign when you slap on some melancholic music on the ride home and reflect on how grateful you are to be exploring the world.
Hasta la próxima!
P.S. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen and a towel for the pool!
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