Only an idiot would travel 5 hours without checking if las gachas Guadalupe were open to tourists. Please, It still hurts. So don’t be like me and visit Guadalupe in the dry season (If you’re going solely to see las gachas that is). The dry months to avoid are January, February, March, and some of April. The rest of the year is the rainy months where you’ll see las gachas in all their glory.
In any case, I can help you get there even if I need to go back when they’re open *cries in Spanish*
Okay. But what are they?
Las gachas (which actually translates to porridge) is a series of sinkholes along an algae-covered river. The algae blossoms under the water giving a magical red and yellow coloring. You may have seen photos of Caño Cristales toward the south of Bogota which has become popular over the years. It’s kinda like that. But smaller and less touristic. Seriously, I’m so gutted I couldn’t see them in the flesh. Anyway, here’s how to get to Guadalupe.
San Gil and then…
San Gil is the gateway of southeast Santander. You can catch a bus to most places from there. Or they’ll at least get you going in the right direction. As is the case with Guadalupe.
Fortunately, getting to San Gil is pan comido (a piece of cake) so I won’t go into detail.
If you’re visiting las gachas de Guadalupe after Barichara you’ll just need to catch the only bus back to Termanilito.
And if you’re coming from Bucaramanga or Bogota your best bet is to grab a taxi to Terminalito. The smaller terminal in San Gil (Terminalito literally means small terminal). It’s about 20 minutes from the main terminal. And all the taxi drivers will know where you mean.
The adventure to Guadalupe
When you arrive at Terminalito you’ll need to jump on a bus to Socorro. Grab your tickets from the seller next to the bus not at the ticket window. When you arrive at the main terminal in Socorro you need to walk to the other bus station where buses leave for Guadalupe. I say bus, it’s more of a 4×4.
The ticket guy is behind this bus,
To get there walk 3 blocks down from the main terminal and then turn left. When you’re on the right street you’ll see a load of buses so don’t worry about missing it.
This mural should be on your right hand side as you walk down the road.
Naturally, I just missed the bus that leaves at 12 pm so had some time to kill until the next one at 1.30 pm. So If you’ve got some time it’s definitely worth walking up to the plaza. The first thing you notice is the number of memorials in the town. After a quick Wikipedia of the names, you learn the important history of the town. It turns out, there began the revolt of the Comuneros of 1781 against the oppression of Spanish rule. And Socorro was the capital of Santander between 1862 and 1886.
Built of strong stuff are the Santandereans. Perhaps that’s why they have a reputation of being the most bravos in Colombia…
One of the many monuments around the plaza
Anyway, if you’re peckish you don’t have too many options. A friendly gentleman directed me to the restaurant Sabor Comunero near the plaza.
Enough carbs to put anyone to sleep!
Stuffed from almuerzo I made my way back to the bus station for the final leg. The journey to Guadalupe should take about 2hrs but it definitely felt longer. But I don’t know whether that was because of the heat or the post-lunch drowsiness. Anyway, we made a stop at Oiba to pick up another poor las gachas de Guadalupe hopefull…
Guadalupe without las gachas
Now then, actually getting to las gachas is easy enough. You’ll see the signs pointing in their direction as you arrive in the pueblo. But, you basically need to walk an hour and you’ll be there. Or hitch a ride on a jeep-like the guys over at Cuppa to Copa. I was so close yet so far!
If you’re staying overnight in Guadalupe your options are somewhat limited. They were in this season anyway. I ended up booking into a hotel for 35 mil. It was super basic but okay for the night.
The owner of the hostel I stayed at in Barichara recommended to me his friends camping place El portal de Luis. But, to be honest, I really didn’t fancy sleeping in a tent. It looked quite cool though. You’d be sleeping on the edge of the town and closer to las gachas.
What else is there to do?
Determined to make the most of my failed attempt I embarked on a short hike to a viewpoint.
If you stay at the hotel simply turn left out of the hotel and follow the street until the local football pitch. Walk that road all the way until the giant Mary on your left-hand side.
Chuck a left when you see Mary and follow the fork to left.
Follow that road up past the friendly locals who helped me out with the last leg. From there you have to walk around the curve in the road and on your right-hand side, you’ll see the way up to the viewpoint. The 360-degree view is bloody worth it.
It’s pretty hidden but you need to climb up there!
The view of Guadalupe.
My bus/ 4×4 driver was adamant that Guadalupe had much more to offer than las gachas. I’m sure it does, however, I didn’t have the time nor the will to stay alone much longer (solo travel takes its toll). So I missed out on seeing the charcos (river rapids located near the pueblo) and the cascada La Gloria (a small waterfall) also close by.
Leaving Guadalupe
You’ve got 2 options here:
The red-eye that leaves at 4 am back to Bucaramanga…
Or the bus to Oiba at 10 am. From there you’ll have to buy an onward ticket to Bucaramanga. You’ll arrive back at the main terminal in Buca in around 4 hours.
En fin.
Despite my misfortune/ stupidity, Guadalupe is another super cute Colombian town. It has a real community feel and I’ll be heading back there for sure in the rainy months…
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