Not many of us can say we’ve climbed the tallest natural pyramid in the world. Here’s how you can join this elite club of Cerro Tusa summiters…
At A Glance
Where is it exactly? Venecia, Antioquia
How far? 2.5 hours by bus from Medellin
How do I get there? Leave from the South Terminal with bus company Fedelina Venecia (booth 23). We left at 9 am but the bus leaves every 2 hours at 15 mil pesos.
What should I bring? Sunscreen, gloves (you can buy these in Venecia), light clothing to hike in as you’re going to sweat! If it’s dry hiking boots aren’t necessary, but would offer more grip than a standard trainer. My friend took a little tumble in a pair of Asics.
But first, how on earth did it appear? And surely there are some cool legends about this pointy steep ass hill, right?
Well, without going into year 8 geography mode, Cerro Tusa formed along with its less famous twin Cerro Bravo around 50 million years ago. And thought to be the two chimneys from a pre-historic volcano.
As for legends, you bet there are! Get your tinfoil hat on Scully. Here’s a few of the best:
- There have been reports of UFO’s (or Ovnis) hovering over the pyramid.
- Supposedly there’s a water-filled cave located somewhere on the surface. Many have tried to find the source to no avail. Could you be that person?
Right, let’s get into it!
Day 1 – Medellín to Venecia
Buses run every 2 hours from the Medellín South Terminal to Venecia. You’ll need to find the bus company Fedelina Venecia at booth 23. Tickets cost 15 mil pesos. And the journey is a breezy albeit bumpy 2hr ride.
El pueblo
Venecia is another charming small town in Antioquia. We arrived around 11 am so we scoped out lunch and looked for a hotel for the night. Your 2 main options are el Turista and la Vereda. We opted for Hotel la Vereda (which also happened to be right next to our lunch spot). Try and get a top floor room. If you’re lucky you’ll get a spectacular view of Cerro Tusa from the balcony. But for only 40 mil pesos you can’t really go wrong!
What to do for the rest of the day?
You should definitely check out Venencia Colonial. A private unidad with pretty houses and rangey views of the Andes. To get there you’ll need to walk about 15 minutes from the main plaza. Apparently, foreigners have invested there for the most part but well worth a look.
Check out the Altar Del Sacrificio & Cara de la Diosa
You’ll likely visit here if you’re climbing Cerro Tusa as part of a tour. But, if not the Altar is a 15-minute moto-Taxi ride from the pueblo. From the alter you can just about make out the face in the rock. And if you walk further up the path you can see her in all her glory.
Legend has it that the indigenous would carry out rituals and sacrifices for la Diosa. And, so you’re aware it’s also known as la Piedra del Tigre. Only because there’s a jaguar that lives in the area that used to prey on passing travelers…
Enjoy Salpicón or Helado (Ice Cream)
There’s a bunch of cute places to eat or tomar algo (drink something) next to the church. You won’t miss the ice cream place…I recommend Salpicón. It’s basically a fruit salad with ice cream and it tastes heavenly.
By your snacks & gloves!
For the hike, you’re going to need a lot of water. I know, captain obvious over here. But, I’d suggest 3 1L bottles as that sun does get intense and you’re expending a lot of energy.
As mentioned in the at a glance, you can buy gloves from a hardware store located right next to the bus stop. You won’t miss it with the smell and sound coming from the cooped up little chicks.
Now get some rest for the big day!
Day 2 – Hiking Cerro Tusa
The Climb
Before embarking on this little known feat I’d read a few blog posts. Many of which went into great detail about the hike. And, to be honest, it’s pretty straightforward. So I’ll keep this to the point. Besides, the fun is in finding out for yourself!
Is it really THAT hard?
Now, when people ask me if it’s as hard as everyone says it is my response is…erm it depends ( I know almost Shakespearean). I found it rather pleasant despite vomiting up a lung in certain sections. By the way, I am 31, active, and competitive. But, I’ve seen photos of people in their 60’s reaching the summit. It’s the descent that’s more fatiguing than anything.
Getting to Cerro Tusa from Venecia
It’s now required to summit with a guide. To be honest, I’d recommend this anyway. Not only to help you navigate the best and safest route but to learn more about the history of the pyramid (and legends of course). You’ll meet your guide in the plaza and moto-taxi to the entrance about 20 minutes from the town.
Here is the tour guide that we used (His name is Julian and speaks English)
Cerro Tusa Pre-climb
A short hike around the base of the mountain to the start of the climb. Nothing strenuous, although you may run into the local cattle. We had a couple of stand-offs with the docile beasts as not to scare them.
Part 1 El Potrero ( The Paddock)
This is where you start the ascent. And it’s a steepness that requires you to go on your hands and knees. Fortunately, there are plenty of roots to grab pull yourself up.
Part 2 El Bosque (The Woods)
As the name suggests you’ll enter the woods. This has 2 advantages; 1 you’re sheltered from the sun & 2. The tree trunks make the climb a lot easier!
Part 3 La Pena (The Crag)
Here you’re finally out of the woods and start the more rocky ascent. This felt the shortest part by far. And the views are spectacular! Just be careful of any loose rocks and be sure to shout PIEDRAA! (Rock in Spanish) if any dislodge causing a mini rock slide.
La bajada
The descent does need some concentration. We could bum slide most of the way. And for a few areas, rappelled down thanks to our guide Julian’s trusty rope. Emily took a little tumble but we never felt like we’d fall to our demise. In fact, we passed a woman of at least 60 flying up the Cerro descalza! (barefoot) so you’ll be fine. Although, If you have knackered knees like mine, I’d suggest strapping them up.
In total, the hike took us about 3hrs. A little over an hour to reach the summit and 1.5hrs to return to el potrero. It’s now required to go with a guide but I’d recommend it anyway. Not only to help you navigate the best and safest route but to learn more about the history of the pyramid (and legends of course).
Back to Medellín!
Just a heads up that the last bus back to Medellin leaves at 4 pm. We found out the hard way…but, if you don’t amble about as we did you’ll make the bus easily after the hike.
Hasta la proxima!
